Monday, January 18, 2010

Una semana en Donostia

Less sleep, late nights, architecture, stairs, dos besitos, fashion, tranquilidad, pedestrian streets, café, pinxtos, lights, laughter; pura belleza. Spanish life: simple, sweet, enjoyable, passionate-sensorial.

I have observed in and attemped to live a week of pure beauty for life, in an attempt to absorb it all. Adapting to the lifestyle as an American, set in my ways is a different story. I am still adjusting to the normalcy of getting to bed between midnight and six am in the morning, while awaking between eight and one. Routine has not yet been established, and that’s okay; when in Rome…or Donostia (San Sebastián in Basque). I tried to convince myself today that I needed to start to get myself into a sleeping routine but then realized that this week is already shot starting tomorrow, the 19th of January. More to come on the Tamborrada later, but in short, it is a 24 hour celebration honoring Saint Sebastian starting tomorrow at midnight and lasting until the 20th at midnight. School is cancelled; the fun begins…or should I say continue?

This last week was reminiscent of the beginning of any uniting of strangers. Start as strangers, and with time, become friends. I have found myself pleasantly surprised and gratified each day no matter whom I am around. I am relieved to know that my fellow study-abroaders (USACers) are sincere in their efforts to learn and desire to acquire knowledge about the environment we are in. Thinking about it, having the guts to leave everything familiar and jump two feet in to the unknown, merits respect for any person regardless of age, objective, or former location. With that said, I can safely say that my Facebook website is now filled with many USAC “friends.”

A few anecdotes and fun facts from this past week:

Cell phones: Prepaid cell phones suck-plain and simple. That is when Facebook comes in handy. When calling someone, no one really wants the other person to answer because they will get charged. Many people have already run out of their minutes and have had to re-charge.

Mass:

I attended mass at the Buen Pastor Cathedral on Sunday night; the huge cathedral a block from my apartment, whose bells I hear chiming on the hour. The mass was difficult to understand due to the microphone echo, and there was only a first reading and then the gospel. There was no second reading. The collection was done using green satchel bags. Communion was disbursed by four different people, with the congregation forming fairly neat lines. The population was probably 90% over 80 years old. Sorry Mom, not any good Catholic boys for me yet. J There are five masses offered on Sundays: 3 in Castellano (Spanish), 1 in Basque, and 1 bilingual Basque/Spanish.

Multilingualism:

The intertwining of Basque (in English), Vasco (in Spanish) or Euskara (in Basque) combined with Spanish, Castellano/Español, _______ (don’t know how to say “Spanish” in Basque) in conjunction with hanging around some English friends creates a unique environment (and confusion). As previously mentioned, in Donostia/San Sebastián, it is appreciated by the locals to make an attempt at speaking Euskara especially when greeting people or dismissing yourself, no matter where you are from, with the sandwich of information between the greeting/dismissal in Spanish. I am taking a Basque class, and I am finding myself questioning whether to translate the Basque words into Spanish or English when making my flashcards. In class, Natalia, mi profesora uses a combination of Spanish, English and Euskara during instruction. The language is difficult, but rooted deep in history, with the people displaying an incredible passion for their region and culture. All street names, posted on the sides of the buildings, are in Spanish on one side of the street, and in Euskara on the other. For example, I leave on Calle Fuenterrabía (Spanish) or Hondarrabía (Basque). All traffic signs are in both Spanish and Euskara, with the Euskara font being slightly different than that of its Spanish counterpart.

The city layout:

Donostia/San Sebastián, as previously mentioned, is a street-walkers paradise-easy to navigate and highly traveled by foot. Nights are filled with window shopping, especially at this time of year with the many “rebajas” (discounts/sales), by both men and women, young and old. My apartment is right above the smaller of the two Zara stores located within a block of each other. Where I live, el Centro, shopping is the main attraction. In la Parte Vieja, bars and restaurants run the neighborhood. Gros is a newer barrio that I haven’t explored too much except to find a blow dryer on my way to join a gym. Ah, with that mentioned, I’ve joined at gym that is about a ten minute walk from my apartment. I received a gym membership card and paid about eighty dollars for a membership through May. Although fairly small and stocked with about ten weight machines, ten bikes, and ten stair steppers/cross trainers; it also has a pool. I figured this would be a great option on those rainy days, and/or for meeting people….hmmm…or guys like the one today that I swear was following me to every lift. Certainly could have been my imagination however, haha.

Italian Friends:

Along with my amazing Spanish roommates who I hung out with this weekend, our apartment is the “study house” for their friends as well. I’ve found it interesting speaking especially with two Italian students/friends because although Spanish is neither of our native language, we are all understood by the others. They seem to have a good grasp on the speaking, because of the similarity to their native language. It’s amazing to see what language can do to unite people. Even within our USAC group, we try our best to speak Spanish to each other. Fascination I tell you, to be able to communicate with people from around the world.

A hurricane?

This story must be told. As I mentioned, I sauntered through the light rain to the gym in Gros on Friday, already knowing that I was going to join the gym. However, as I continued walking, the quantity of rain started to increase. Luckily, I pulled out my awesome purple plaid umbrella and used it to combat the drops soaking my blue jeans, and continuing to fill my shoes. Upon arrival and registration at the gym, my return mission was to find a blow dryer that I saw in a shop window on the way. I succeeded in this endeavor, however this was one of the only successes of the day. The wind and rain continually pounded me as I fought with my umbrella, turning itself inside out until I finally gave up, entered the Kutxa bank, caught my breath and threw the umbrella in my backpack. I’d have to do this alone-without the umbrella. I only had about five blocks to go. I could do it. Determination. Crossing the street after hightailing it out of the bank, my blowdryer fell in the middle of the street because the paper bag it was in has become so soggy that it flat out ripped. Luckily I was crossing with a green light, stooped to pick it up, and was nearly knocked over by a gust of wind. No turning back now; I was on the bridge. I found myself, knees bent in an athletic football stance fighting the wind, while other people gripped the side of the bridge for stability. Umbrellas fluttered and flew against any building as they escaped the hands so dearly trying to cling onto them. Although I had a pretty solid stance I felt, I tried to make it to grab the bridge, when a huge gust of wind pushed me toward the street corner…and an oncoming car. I had no option but to grab onto the light pole that stood between me and the street. So, there I stood, like an idiot, grabbing onto a light pole, but thank goodness for that!!!!!! The rest of the trip home consisted of popping into door entryways every block to take a “break.” Needless to say, by the time I got to school later in the day, my backpack had been open, books wet, pants soaked, and took a little “detour” on the bus route to school. It’s all a part of the adventure folks, and not to worry; it WAS an abnormal weather day!! J


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